Today, your beverage aisle might showcase retro, handcrafted “root sodas” with exotic spices, certified organic root beers, a green-tea root beer, and a diet root beer spiked with an eco-sounding plant-based sweetener. The good news is that root beer, like Mickey Rourke, is making a comeback, and the results can be kinda wild. What started as a handcrafted, medicinal-tasting beverage devolved during the last century into a mass-produced cloying shadow of its former self. Ha! If only it were this straightforward. Perhaps, like me, you go with the simple criterion of avoiding anything produced by Big Soda and loaded with high-fructose corn syrup. (Okay, if you want to split hairs: Nothing hits the spot on a hot day like an icy glass of all-American root beer when you must stay sober.) The problem is that when you take your wilting self to the cool respite of the beverage aisle, you discover that nothing in this life is simple. Nothing hits the spot on a hot day like an icy glass of all-American root beer.
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